Island of Kahoolawe

Kahoolawe is the smallest of the eight major Hawaiian Islands. Over the last two centuries the island's geography has been drastically altered by human intervention. What was once a lush vegetative area has now become a barren, uninhabited region. Its decline began with the poor agricultural practices of ranchers and was later furthered by the actions of the United States military. For years Kahoolawe was used as a training ground and subject to several bombing exercises which left portions of the land mass completely desolate. It was not until the late 20th century that this would cease, bringing an end to its continued destruction. Under the guidance of the Kahoolawe Island Reserve Commission work is now under-way to rectify the damage and preserve the island for historic purposes. While the process will take several years to be completed the enthusiasm and dedication behind the restoration efforts will likely lead to an impressive transformation.

First Settlements on the Sacred Island
Kahoolawe, also known as the sacred island, was first settled in the year 1000 AD. The island was populated by hundreds of Hawaiians who remained within its prosperous confines for several centuries. The settlements that were created thrived on earlier forms of agriculture and fishing. Spirituality was of the utmost importance to the natives who developed numerous shrines and held frequent religious ceremonies. Much of the ancient Hawaiian culture has been unraveled within the surfaces of rocks found in the Kahoolawe region. Its title as the sacred island has been connected to its use as a training ground for Kahunas, who learned the art of navigation for ocean voyages during their sojourn.

The island's geography went through its first major transformation from a forested region with streams which provided fresh water to a grassy plain with a few trees. The natives slowly eroded the favorable soil conditions by cutting down trees for use as firewood. As the freshwater sources declined so too did the population of indigenous peoples. The island's prosperity was further compromised when Kalaniopuu, the early Hawaiian ruler, took hold of the island and pillaged it killing many of its original inhabitants. His primary objective was to subdue Maui, the island's closest neighbor; however, his attempts eventually proved futile.\

The 19th Century and Beyond
The first European voyagers to the Hawaiian Islands made mention of Kahoolawe, which was deemed a barren and virtually desolate area. Once the missionaries arrived on the Big Island they influenced King Kamehameha to discontinue the use of the death penalty and instead banish those persons found guilty of certain criminal acts to Kahoolawe. Many prisoners starved once on the island because of a lack of food or ready supply of freshwater. Some outlaws made their way to the nearby island Maui, in search of refuge and nourishment. The act was repealed in 1853, some 23 years after it was first introduced.

By 1858 Kahoolawe was designated an area for ranching and agricultural purposes. As much as 50 persons made their way to the island where they established small farms that grew tobacco, pineapple and sugar cane. Once ranching began, however, the problems facing the island's delicate soil conditions worsened. Grazing animals like goats, depleted much more of the vegetation and within an 80 year span the land virtually became a desert. Some ranchers were able to turn a profit; however, the lack of freshwater and dwindling food stores for grazing animals caused many to abandon the venture.

During the period from 1910 to 1918 the Hawaiian government attempted to restore much of the lost vegetation on the island. A forest reserve was implemented, which led to the removal of livestock and the replanting of some trees. However, this effort soon failed and the lands were once again leased for various activities. The entire island was subsequently leased to Angus MacPhee of Wyoming for 21 years. In that period he enjoyed some success as a result of heavy rainfall which caused the natural re-growth of the island's vegetation. Yet, this stretch of prosperity ended once drought conditions again plagued the area. MacPhee eventually sublet a portion of the island to the United States Military. Within the same year he left Kahoolawe with his livestock, never to return.

The 1941 attack on Pearl Harbor fueled the Army's decision to place the entire Kingdom of Hawaii under martial law while using Kahoolawe as a training ground. Bombing exercises were carried out continuously on the island. The landscape of war was changing and so were the American tactics. Soldiers were rigorously trained to shoot and launch bombs with precision, thus reducing enemy numbers before going ashore to battle. Naval gunfire support was integral to the overall success of the entire operation thus training for soldiers on active duty were essential to the war effort.

After World War II ended, Kahoolawe was still utilized as a training area. Mock airfields were re-created and pilots were given the opportunity to simulate the attacks that would take place during war time. Practice continued in response to the Korean War, the Cold War and the war in Vietnam.

Protest Action and the Move to Restore Kahoolawe
Although Kahoolawe was considered nothing more than a wasteland only fit for military use, there was a growing sense of discomfort among the natives of the Hawaiian Islands. A small group of people bravely conducted an official protest on January 4, 1976. Seven of the nine protesters were arrested shortly after activities commenced. Walter Ritter Jr. and Emmet Aluli were the only two who made it ashore. They spent three days on the island before turning themselves over to army personnel. The two made it a point to tell their story and reveal the extent of the destruction to the small area. This inspired more protesters, some of whom repeated the success of the two men by landing on the island and seeing first hand for themselves the level of decimation.

Prior to the first act of protest the county councils of both Hawaii and Kauai petitioned to have bombing activities stopped. Natives also got involved and held small pockets of demonstrations and also filed law suits to put an end to the bombings. The movement was deemed Protect Kahoolawe Ohana. By 1980 the group drafted its first agreement with the United States Navy that stipulated the removal of grazing animals and deadly weapons that were left undetonated on large sections of the island and the initiation of archaeological surveys. Kahoolawe was later officially declared a historic site in 1981.

President George Bush banned the use of the island for military training and bombing exercises on October 22, 1990. The Navy was funded by congress to clean up the areas that were extensively damaged during the period. The Kahoolawe Island Reserve Commission was established soon after to continue the restoration efforts.

Kahoolawe Re-established
The year 1994, marked Kahoolawe's return to the State of Hawaii. By 1997 more work was being done to remove unexploded ammunition and other hazardous materials. A team of archaeologists, environmentalists, surveyors and other workers were sent to the island to help retrace its past and restore it to its natural beauty. Total access was granted to the state of Hawaii on November 11, 2003. The cleanup efforts reported the removal and disposal of over 90,000 pieces of unexploded devices and 12,000 tires used as markers for target practice. There are now 2,550 identifiable historic sites that have been unearthed many of which were newly detected during the restoration effort.

Irrigation and water channels have been established to help re-grow the sparse vegetation. A catchment has been implemented that presently directs freshwater to local plants and trees. A reservoir has also been constructed to provide drinking water for future inhabitants of the island. At present Kahoolawe is still off limits to the public because it has not yet been declared completely safe. While many types of ordnance were cleared, there is still more hazardous material left to be removed. Fishing very close to the shore of the island is also forbidden and persons seeking to enter the area most be given authorized permits.

There is no specific date set for restoration efforts to be completed. Current estimates suggest that it will require several more years to have the area fit for human habitation. Yet, in this period, archaeologists have been given the opportunity to find out more about the island and recreate its history by studying carvings and certain sites of interest. Two areas in particular have already garnered much attention. Moaulaiki and Kealaikahiki, places once used for training navigators and star gazing, are historical sites that will someday be open for public viewing.

Though the island has lost most of its original beauty, its importance to the history of the archipelago has become more apparent with new archaeological findings. Preserving its essence and returning it to a safe haven for all Hawaiians is the primary aim of ongoing restoration projects. It will take a grand effort and continued support to achieve the ultimate goal of a self-sustaining island, suitable for tourism and formal habitation. Yet, its success is quite likely based on the work that has already been completed and the determination of the overseeing bodies.

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