Molokai is the fifth largest island in the Hawaiian archipelago measuring a total of 260 square miles. Also known as the "Friendly Isle", it is home to an estimated 7,000 natives. Its peaceful environment is largely attributed to its relatively small population, restricted development and quaint settlements. It is, like many of the other islands, an ideal setting for tourism with its vast network of mountains, brilliant landscapes, agreeable climate and superb beaches. In 2007 the National Geographic Travel magazine ranked it the 10^thtop tourist destination among 111 other archipelagos and islands. Molokai's appeal is partly the result of its staggering beauty and also its rich tradition and culture. The natives have taken great care to preserve these two important aspects and likewise the magnificent surroundings. Of all the islands, it is considered the most in tune with the Hawaiian way of life and is, therefore, significant to the perpetuation of these ideals.

From the Early Settlers to the Present
Molokai was first settled by native Polynesians sometime in the year 650 AD. The Polynesians developed a thriving fishing community that relied mostly on the activities of brave men that battled the fierce ocean by outrigger canoe. The main tools used to capture a variety of sea life at that time were nets and spears. For more than 1200 years the island would remain a viable fishing community. Other means of sustenance were provided by agriculture. Natives grew a variety of produce including sweet potato, the island staple, taro, which flourished in the mineral rich volcanic soil and onion, the delectable seasoning. Sweet potato served two purposes: it was regularly consumed with meals comprised largely of seafood, and as a feed for pigs that were raised primarily for use as a commodity in the barter trade with neighboring villages.

The population on the island during this period was fairly small, yet the land was explored and used for several activities. Large networks of rock wall were created to separate individual lots. These took on different shapes and sizes and covered a vast area of the countryside. Their purpose has not yet been established by historians as there are no formal records related to their construction. They may have been built as pens to keep pigs in designated areas, they may have been used to protect crops from the erratic winds that blew throughout the region or they may have been constructed to distinguish various properties.

The natives indulged in several ceremonial practices. They developed large fishing shrines known as heiau that were a formal place to make offerings to the gods as a means of protection when at sea. They were aware of the possible dangers associated with the surrounding body of water, and though they enjoyed seafaring activities, they believed that the protection of the great deities was essential. The heiau were constructed with stone and were molded in either a square or spherical shape. These platforms were covered in coral or flat rocks and each design took on a new life of its own. An offering, usually fish, was placed on the flat surface of the rock structure and left as a token to the gods.

Molokai's Historic Names
Hawaiian islands are generally referred to by expressions that denote the more interesting characteristics of each region. Molokai has been called several different names since it was first inhabited by the ancient Polynesians. Among the more popularly known are: Molokai Nui A Hina, Aina Momona, Molokai Pule O'o and Molokai No Ka Heke. Each expression is significant to understanding the island's history and culture.

Molokai Nui A Hina
The given name "Molokai Nui a Hina" is literally translated to mean "Great Molokai, Child of Hina". This personifies Molokai as a child, precious and in need of nurturing. The legends explicitly state that Molokai was born of the sky god Wakea and the goddess of the moon Hina. The ancient Hawaiians revered the land. Subsequently, by viewing the island as the offspring of two great deities they learnt to conserve the resources available and to cherish the much beloved gift.

Aina Momona
"Aina Momona" or "Land of Plenty" was Molokai's chief descriptor at some point in its history. Prior to contact with the western world Molokai was an agrarian and fishing society. The lands were extremely fertile producing a wide variety of crops and several fishponds. Measures to protect reefs ensured that the island produced some of the most sumptuous fish in the region. Understandably, it was also commonly referred to as "Land of Fat Fish and Kukui Nut Relish".

Molokai Pule O`o
"Molokai Pule O`o" or "'Island of Powerful Prayers" was a commonly used expression. The island's historical value as an ancient training ground for high priests earned it the reputation of being a sacred place. It was believed that the people of Molokai maintained the power to defeat entire armies with the use of combined prayers.

Molokai Nō Ka Heke
'Molokai Nō Ka Heke', or "Molokai is the Greatest, the Foremost", was an expression used by the natives to taunt to the people of Maui who derived their own boastful name, "Maui No Ka Oi" or "Maui is the best". It demonstrates the pride that the people of Molokai maintained and in many ways the friendly interaction between the native Hawaiians.

Past Leper Colony
A large part of Molokai's history is tied to its past function as a leper colony. Kalaupapa, an area within the island separated from the rest of the land mass by cliffs as tall as 1600 feet, was chosen as the ideal place to establish an isolated settlement for lepers. The disease, properly known as Hansen's disease, surfaced on the Hawaiian islands some time in the early 19^th century with the first official case being recorded in 1848. It was much feared because of its disfiguring effects, relatively fast spread and its inability to be cured at the time.

Starting in 1866, sufferers were sent to Molokai and for 7 years were exposed to deplorable living conditions. It was not until Father Damien, a Catholic missionary, came to the island that the sufferers eventually received proper housing and sanitary conveniences. His good work continued even after his death from the disease. Other notable missionaries including Brother Joseph Dutton and Mother Marianne came to the colony to maintain all that had already been achieved. By 1940, when the disease had been virtually eradicated after the introduction of the treatment sulfone, it was no longer considered a segregated part of the island. However, many sufferers refused to leave and a few still live in Kalaupapa to this day.

Present Day Kalaupapa
Today Kalaupapa is anything but an isolated, condemned area. It houses the most well equipped and most adequately staffed hospital in Molokai. Additionally there is a post office, a fire station, an unused jail house and a large administrative building. At its center is the town hall which was once used for meetings. A chalkboard remains in the hall which is still primarily used to highlight notices and other important information. Kalaupapa is an official National Historic site. The area is sparsely populated with a few patients that continue to thrive in the place they call home.

Entering Kalaupapa requires special permission by a resident or the town council. There are tours that are carried out that allow visitors the opportunity to see the colony in its entirety. Getting to the village can be achieved by foot using the small trail or by air travel. Visitors must be above the age of 16 to be granted access to the area.

The main means of transport to and from Kalaupapa is by airplane, sea and mule. A small airstrip has been established to allow planes to land safely. Supplies are generally brought in by air, which is by far the easiest way to access the region. Honolulu continues to give support to the colony. Once a year various commodities are brought to Kalaupapa including gasoline, beer and rice.

Cultural Significance
Molokai houses some of the archipelago's most viable archaeological sites. Many of these remain untouched and are, therefore, important to preserving information from the past. Some of the more important sites include large stone structures, the Kukui Tree Grove of Lanikaula, a great prophet and healer, and Ili'iliopae Heaiu, one of Hawaii's most impressive religious temples. Additionally, the inhabitants perpetuate authentic Hawaiian culture by ensuring the language is learned and used by all natives. Some traditions have also been perpetuated to present day. The Fall Harvest Festival or Annual Makahiki rites are observed every year, without fail. Natives still use traditional hunting, fishing and agricultural practices daily. Many past religious customs have continued. Several fishponds have been preserved, in hope for future use.

Sights to see and Activities to Do in Molokai
There are three main areas of interest in Molokai: the Kalaupapa National Historic Park, the Molokai Museum and Cultural Center and the Big wind Kite factory, where scheduled tours and Kite Flying lessons are held.

Molokai is also a wonderful place for hikers and visitors who enjoy the great outdoors. There are several parks that offer beautiful scenery and colorful landscapes that are ideal for picnics. Additionally, visitors can indulge in activities including golfing at the Ironwoods Golf Course, visiting several secluded beaches that are as relaxing as they are beautiful and viewing underwater spectacles or surfing the choppy waters near coastal regions.

Molokai may not be Hawaii's largest island, yet it still manages to maintain much of what gives the archipelago its uniqueness. It is a cultural hub and a place steeped in rich traditions that have been passed down generationally. It provides a wonderful outlet for rest and relaxation and a viable learning experience for visitors interested in the island's colorful past.

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