Brief History of Perfumes and Fragrances

Perfume is essentially a fusion of scented essential oils, aromatic compounds, fixative substances and solvent materials created to provide humans a pleasant aroma. The name perfume is derived from a Latin phrase "per fumus" that literally means "through smoke". Later, the French used the word parfum for the smell emanating from burning incense. However, Mesopotamians were the first to master the art of making perfumes, also known as perfumery.

References to perfumes that were mainly incense based can also be found in many ancient Indian texts. The Charaka Samhita, a text from Hindu Ayurveda, clearly lists the distillation process for making Attar, a scented oil obtained from petals of flowers. The use of aromatic oil extracted from agarwood is also mentioned in 7th century AD Harshcharita.

The original form of perfume created was incense. It was identified by Mesopotamians some 4,000 years ago. Tapputi, a woman chemist is credited as being the first known person who made perfumes. Her name was mentioned in the cuneiform script believed to be from the second millennium corresponding to the Mesopotamian era. She created the perfume by mixing oils extracted from distilling flowers, other oils and aromatic roots of calamus with other aromatic substances, which were then filtered and put through the still a number of times.

In recent years, archeologists have unearthed an ancient perfumery in Pyrgos, Cyprus. The perfumes discovered there are believed to be over 4,000 years old. Large amounts of perfume bottles, funnels, stills and mixing bowls were also unearthed.

The comprehensive book about perfumes titled Book of the Chemistry of Perfume and Distillations was written by Al-Kindi, a chemist from Arabia during the 19th century. The book contains over a hundred recipes for making salves, aromatic oils and waters, and alternatives or replications of expensive drugs. It also contains about 107 perfume making recipes and list of equipment required for it.

The most commonly used process today, for extracting essential oils from various flowers using the method of distillation was first discovered by a Persian doctor, Avicenna.

Europeans got acquainted with the art of perfume making in the 14th century as the Moors spread through the region. However, the first contemporary perfume was introduced by the Hungarians. It was in 1370; fragrant oils were mixed with a solution of alcohol at the behest of Queen Elizabeth and instantly became popular across the Europe as Hungary water. Perfumery blossomed in Renaissance Italy. In the 16th century, the Italian art of perfume making was brought to France by Rene le Florentin, the private perfumer of Catherine de' Medici. France soon became the main perfume producing center in Europe. In the 18th century, new plantations of aromatic and fragrant plants started to come up in Grasse, France, to meet the growing demands of raw materials for its prospering perfume industry. Today, France remains the major center of perfume production in the world.

Different Types of Perfumes

In a general sense, all products that are created to make the user smell nice can be referred to as perfumes. However, in terms of the cosmetic industry, perfume has a specific connotation. Perfumes are classified according to the concentration of fragrant oils in a solvent substance. The common substances used as a solvent are ethanol, water and ethanol solutions, coconut oil, jojoba oil and others.

Perfume Extract: Commonly known as perfume, it has the utmost concentration of fragrant compounds and is highly effective. It contains 15% to 40% of fragrant compounds. It also lasts for a longer duration of time and smells quite strong and thus should be used in small quantities. It is generally used on the pulse points of the body.

Eau de Parfum (EDP): The concentration of fragrant compounds or perfume oils is comparatively much less in eau de parfum than what it is in perfume extract. It has about 10% to 20% of perfume compounds, with most having less than 15%. However, the percentage of perfume compounds is not monitored as such and the exact quantity will differ from brand to brand. The main advantage of eau de parfum is the price. As the concentration of perfume oil is quite less than perfume extract, it costs less, yet gives you the same effect. When compared with other types of perfumes like eau de cologne or eau de toilette, it lasts longer. It can be used on the whole body or like perfume extract to cover the pulse points.

Eau de Toilette (EDT): About 5% to 15%, with generally less than 10% concentration of fragrant compounds is used when making eau de toilette. The solvent used is usually a mixture of water and alcohol. The low concentration makes it a light perfume that doesn't last as long as other, stronger, perfumes. It was initially intended to be used as a body splash that will help people to wake up feeling fresh in the morning.

Eau de Cologne (EDC): It contains only about 3% to 8% of perfume oils with most being made with a 5% concentration. The term is sometimes used interchangeably with eau de toilette. However, it is made by mixing citrus oils with a single refreshing fragrance. It is less potent than the rest of the perfumes.

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